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The Most Common Drywall Misconceptions and Myths

The Most Common Drywall Misconceptions and Myths

1. Every drywall type is the same

Most home centers will have a range of drywall types, such as regular, water-resistant, lightweight, and fire-resistant. On the other hand, building materials suppliers, such as ourselves stock these types of drywall, such as fire-resistant, along with other types like abuse-resistant/impact-resistant, mold-resistant, and more.

2. Drywall does not have a particular strength axis

Some people maybe that a sheet of drywall does not have any particular stength axis, however, this is not the case. Drywall has a strength axis along its length (or long side of the sheet). If you’re required to cut a rectangular piece of drywall to fit into a smaller space, say the cut should be made so that the length of the rectangle runs along the sheet’s long side.

3. Mesh drywall tape is among the most durable

Mesh drywall tape has their use case. You can use it for taping joints. None the less, if you want to have the strongest tape, paper tape is what you want to use.

4. Mesh tape makes the most effective all-purpose tape

Mesh tape is excellent for its ease of use. However, using mesh tape for corners may prove difficult. it is much more convenient to use paper tape in corners due to its center crease.

5. The longer the drywall screws the better

It’s not true. Don’t make use of excessively long screws for drywall. They do not increase the structural strength of your home or the connection between the drywall and the framing. Excessively long screws can only increase the risk of damaging plumbing or wiring concealed in walls.

6. Installation damage can be repaired by drywall tapers

Don’t depend on the drywall taper to cover up any mistakes. The gaps and damages need to be trimmed, repaired, replaced, or filled prior to tape.

7. Utility rooms and garages don't require tape

It’s certainly more work to finish the work on drywalls that are hung in places that do not need to look attractive. However, building codes and the building inspector in your area will instruct you to finish the work. To ensure the fire resistance of your wall, the areas could require tape and, at minimum, the application of one layer of plaster.

8. Drywall knives can only be used one way

While a drywall knife looks simple to use. there are actually three primary grips that each apply force to the knife differently. First is applying your thumb in front of the blade for an even and steady force. The second is by placing your forefinger left of center shifts tension to the left and away from the central line. The last method reqiures a forefinger to the right of the center shifting force to the right.

9. You can tape a joint too tightly

While some may say you do not want to have your tape to be too tight, it is actually preferred to have corner tape be tight. When your tape is tight it reduces bumps and sanding.

10. Only use sanders to remove ridges and high spots

Utilize a 4-inch or 10-inch knife to cut off high points. Scrape parallel toward the line. Do not remove ridges with sanding! Overstimulation with sanding can cause more bumps. Only apply a sander after all coatings have been put on.

11. Apply a thick joint compound so that more of it can be used

Apply a slightly thinner joint compound (mud) to ensure that it doesn’t leave any bumps when you use the knife. Thin mud can draw down much more evenly. Furthermore, mud that has been thinned creates fewer air pockets. You can thin your mud by placing the tool in water and mixing the mud in the tool. Be sure to thin the mud when it begins to dry.

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